Bass Club Digest

Over the years I’ve spent a lot of time on the water chasing bass (and a few other fish) and testing bassboats. Of the hundreds of boats I’ve been in I can remember only a handful being in suspect condition.

Bass boat owners invest a lot of money in their fishing platforms and as a rule keep them in top cosmetic and mechanical condition.

During the same time, however, I have also seen and been in just as many tow vehicles and am often surprised to see a shiny, $40,000 bassboat package being towed behind a smoke belching, rough running beater of a pickup or SUV with balding tires and a missing headlight.

Often, it’s those very same tow vehicles you see sitting on the side of the highway with steam belching from the radiator with a growing pool of transmission fluid accumulating under the chassis.

The sad thing is that these broken-down vehicles aren’t 25-year-old relics; they are often vehicles that are less than 10 years old.

As the cowboys used to say about worn out horses, “She looks rode hard and put away wet.” Unfortunately, this is all too true when applied to many vehicles towing bass club member’s boats.

If you want to chase fish, you first have to get your boat to the water—and to do so your tow vehicle needs to be in reliable mechanical condition.

Mileage Watchers

Regular preventive maintenance is extremely important. Now most of us are pretty good at the basics. We check tire inflation regularly, change the engine oil and filter ever three months/3,000 miles and top off the coolant, power steering and transmission fluids.

While this is certainly important maintenance, it really isn’t enough for a tow vehicle that sees 15,000 miles or more each year, which is why I advocate that every tow vehicle gets a “full-service” maintenance check a couple of times a year—or every 7,500 miles. Annually if you are pressed for time.

So what is a full service? Basically it is a preventive maintenance procedure that checks, inspects and/or repairs vital systems from bumper-to-bumper.
What needs to be inspected may vary on different vehicles, but the checks and service procedure outlined below pretty much cover most tow vehicles. However, for safety and reliability, it is a good idea to check the maintenance schedules in the owner’s manual for your specific vehicle.
Just remember that when you review the factory service recommendations, vehicles that regularly tow a trailer are considered as operating under “severe” conditions—or the Type “B” maintenance schedule.

While virtually all the full service maintenance checks can be performed by the do-it-yourselfer (which includes most bassboaters), it is probably wise to have vehicles under warranty serviced by the dealer to insure it remains in effect.

The maintenance schedules listed below are considered bi-annual checks and are based on the assumption that the vehicle owner will be performing the work. These recommendations are based upon factory recommended service intervals.

But it is important to remember that in addition to the service checks listed here, every tow vehicle will need to undergo specific factory-ordered service at specific mileage intervals such as 24,000, 30,000 60,000 and 80,000 miles.

If your twice-annual service check coincides with a major service interval, you’ll need to include those items as well as those listed in this article.

Safety First

Before working on the vehicle, take a few minutes to make sure the vehicle is safe to work on—and you are safe to work on it.

For most of the following procedures, this means that the vehicle will be in Park, with the parking brake set, wheels chocked and the engine off. However, depending upon the service required, it may also be necessary to disconnect the battery ground cable (-), make certain checks with the engine running (such as checking automatic transmission fluid) and it may be necessary to jack up the vehicle (brakes/driveline/suspension).

Here is a short list of do’s and don’ts that should be followed when working on any vehicle:

DO keep long hair and loose clothing away from moving parts. Wear a close-fitting shirt and tie long hair back.
DO make sure the vehicle is safely parked on level ground, with wheels chocked, parking brake set and transmission in Neutral or Park.
DO wear safety glasses when working on or under the vehicle to protect your eyes from falling dirt and caustic chemicals.
DO have someone check on you every once in awhile to make sure you are OK—especially if you plan on working under the vehicle.
DO keep a fire extinguisher within reach of the work area…just in case.
DO use jacks and jackstands of the approved weight rating for your vehicle and position them in the correct position under the chassis (refer to the owner’s manual).
DO use the correct tools and make sure they are in good condition before starting work. Cracked sockets, worn screwdrivers and old locking pliers won’t make for safety or a good repair.
DO have on hand an owner’s workshop manual (such as those produce by Haynes or Chilton) or a factory service manual to refer to during the repair process.
DO keep toxic chemicals such as antifreeze, oil, gasoline and other automotive chemicals out of the reach of children and away from animals.
DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the parking brake is set and the transmission is in Park or Neutral.
DON’T allow children or animals around the vehicle while it is being worked on.
DON’T try to loosen tight lug nuts while the vehicle is on a jack; it could fall off the jack. Loosen the nuts a little before jacking the vehicle.
DON’T touch any part of the engine or drain vital fluids until they have cooled enough so that you won’t get burned.
DON’T leave spilled oil or grease on the floor of the work area. Wipe it up before someone slips and gets hurt.
DON’T smoke or have open flame near a vehicle being worked on. Many automotive chemicals are flammable.
DON’T drink beer or alcohol while working on your vehicle. Keep a clear head for safety and celebrate after the work is completed.

BY THE BOOK

The following service checks are recommended every 7,500 miles or twice a year and are in addition to regular on-going service and maintenance such as regular engine oil/filter changes (every 3,000 miles), vital fluid checks, and any repairs that occur in the interim. Refer to your owner’s manual for specific fluid types (power steering fluid, transmission fluid, engine oil, filter type, coolant type, etc.).

Coolant – Most automotive coolant should be changed every two years or 24,000 miles as it picks up acids and impurities that can clog and corrode cooling passages over time. Coolant test strips available from autoparts stores will indicate if a coolant change is necessary. Top up as necessary with 50/50 mixture of coolant and water.
Radiator and hoses – Radiator cap should fit securely. Check radiator grille for pinched or leaking fins and use a brush to clear away any dirt and debris blocking the unit. Examine the hoses and hose connections for cracks, leaks, sponginess, or bulging. Squeezing them between thumb and forefinger should provide a pliant, resilient response. Replace suspect hoses and use new hose clamps.
Serpentine belts – Modern drive belts usually last some 60,000 miles but regular inspections are necessary. Check for longitudinal cracks, broken vanes, fraying edges, or brittle appearance. Check tension using a belt tension gauge and adjust as required.
Battery – Check terminal connections for corrosion (white powder) and tightness. If corrosion is found, disconnect terminals (negative terminal first) and clean terminals and posts with wire brush. Then apply a runny paste of baking soda and water to neutralize corrosive action. Examine cables for wear and check tightness at ground and starter mounting points. On unsealed batteries, inspect fluid level and top up as necessary with distilled water.
Power steering – Before inspecting the fluid level, take a clean rag and wipe the caps clean. Dirt and grease entering the system will degrade operation. On most vehicles power steering fluid is automatic transmission fluid. It should be red and need only a small top up. If it is significantly low, add a power steering stop leak and inspect system for leaks.
Brake fluid – Before inspecting the fluid level, take a clean rag and wipe the caps clean. Dirt and grease entering the system will degrade operation. Top up as necessary with the correct DOT approved fluid (see owner’s manual). Once fluid is up to spec, replace cap and test brake pedal action by pumping the pedal. (You may need to run the engine.) It should feel firm, not spongy. A soft or spongy pedal indicates air in the system that will require bleeding the brakes to eliminate.
Brakes –Jack up and properly support the vehicle before beginning. For disc brake inspection, you’ll have to remove the wheel. Most calipers have an inspection hole in them that is easily seen once the wheel is removed. Most rear brakes on pickups and SUVs are the tradition drum type, so removing both the wheel and the wheel drum is necessary for a brake shoe inspection. You should also inspect brake hoses and wheel cylinders for leaks or wear at the same time.
Manual transmission fluid level – Most manual transmission have a fill plug that must be removed to check fluid level. Jack the vehicle up and make sure it is properly supported by jack stands. Remove the fill plug and stick a finger into the hole. Fluid level should be just at the bottom of the plughole. Top up as needed with the correct transmission fluid or gear grease.
Transfer case and rear differential – Both of these have fill plugs that must be removed to check fill level. As with the manual transmission, fluid level should just be at the bottom of the fill hole.
Automatic transmission fluid level – This is checked with the engine running, parking brake set and the vehicle in Park. A proper check requires that the transmission fluid be up to operating temperature so do this check only after driving the vehicle for about 15-20 minutes. Check the dipstick for correct fluid level (top up as necessary with correct fluid) and also for fluid condition. Transmission fluid should be translucent red in color it should not be brownish, smell burnt or have bits of debris in it. If it is, an immediate fluid/filter change is necessary, as well as an inspection by a professional.
Shift linkage – Have a buddy maneuver the shift lever while you inspect linkage movement. There should be no binding or excessive play. Lubricate moving parts with automotive parts grease.
Throttle linkage – Have a buddy press the throttle pedal while you inspect linkage/cable movement. Check for smooth operation and return. Lubricate with a few drops of engine oil or a spray lubricating oil.
Plug wires and spark plugs – Plug wires should be flexible, not brittle and plug boots should completely cover the plug. Pull the plugs – one at a time – and check for condition and gap. Plugs should be replaced annually (unless platinum-tipped) and plug wires replaced every other year.
Steering linkage and drive line components – Tow vehicles see a lot of water and to keep linkage and drive line parts working properly, regular lubrication with a chassis-rated grease is necessary. Use a clean rag and clean all Zerc fittings before pumping grease into them.
Air box/filter assembly – Clean air is a must for efficient operation and unless you are running a re-useable filter such as K&N, you’ll need to replace it. While doing this, check/clean the air box or filter surround, wiping up debris and grease and examine the condition of the air conduit. It should not have any holes or cracks.
Suspension/shocks – Examine suspension mounting points, checking bolt tightness. Check for broken leaf springs on rear suspension and examine shocks to make sure they aren’t bent, broken, or leaking.
Rotate tires – Regular rotation of tires extends tire life by providing even wear. Check the owner’s manual for the correct rotation pattern. While you are at it, examine the tires for cracked or bruised side walls, unusual tread wear patterns and valve stem condition. Then, check and adjust inflation levels. Don’t forget the spare!
Receiver hitch – Examine the receiver hitch for corrosion, cracks or scraping damage. Make sure all mounting points are properly torqued and that the trailer wiring and connector plug are in good condition.
Lights – Make sure the headlights, taillights, brakelights, directionals, parking lights and license plate lights are working properly.
Wipers – Check overall condition of wiper blades. They should be supple and without cracks, chips or hardness so they provide a streak-free clearing of the windshield and rear window (SUV).

Author’s note: The list above is long and detailed. But it’s exactly what the vehicle manufacturer, based on their tests and input from the engineers who designed and built it, recommend in order to keep it functioning long after the warranty has expired.
Follow the maintenance schedules religiously and there’s no reason your tow vehicle can’t be going about its business long after you’ve worn out at least a couple bassboats.

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