Like most bass fishermen, you probably take pride in keeping
your bass boat clean and in perfect running order. You want to
look sharp on the water and avert a breakdown that could cut
short a fishing day. But, are you giving equal attention to your
boat trailer? You should be.
A trailer malfunction on the road can kill a fishing trip
just as surely as a blown outboard. And, it has a greater
potential for a serious accident, since you may be in traffic or
traveling at speed on a highway when something goes awry.
Your boat also spends more time on a trailer than in the
water. If the trailer isn’t set up and maintained properly, it
could cause more stress and damage to your boat’s hull than the
boat gets on the water.
It is vital that the trailer supports the hull evenly. You
normally get a good match when you buy a boat and trailer
package from the same manufacturer. The trailer’s capacity
should be more than the combined weight of the boat, motor, and
everything stored in the boat.
Also, your tow vehicle and trailer hitch should be rated to
carry more than the combined weight of your rig when it’s
loaded. The hitch should be fixed to the tow vehicle’s frame,
not the bumper.
The
tongue weight is the weight the loaded trailer places on the
towing hitch. It should be 5 percent – 10 percent of the
combined weight of your rig. Too much tongue weight makes the
tow vehicle tail-drag. Too little tongue weight lets the trailer
sway. You can measure the tongue weight on a bathroom scale.
Adjust the weight by moving the boat forward or backward on the
trailer. Daryl Hammers, part owner of Marine Master Trailers,
likes a tongue weight of about 150 pounds on a bass boat rig.
Beyond these essentials, you should go through the following
trailer checklist every time you go fishing. You’ll be safer and
much less likely to be stuck on the side of the road when you
could be fishing.
Trailering Tips
Tow Ball: If your tow ball is a
nut-and-bolt system, check the nut to be sure it’s tight. Be
sure the coupler falls completely over the ball and that the
latching mechanism is locked. Secure the coupler with a pin or
lock.
Safety Chains: Crisscross the safety
chains under the trailer tongue and then attach them to the
tow vehicle so they will catch the tongue if it falls off the
hitch. Also attach the cable for the safety break.
Trailer Lights: After plugging in
your trailer lights, visibly check to see if the running
lights, brake lights and turn signals are working. Also
inspect the trailer’s wiring for damage. Pets and rodents
often chew on the wiring insulation and cause lighting
failures.
Tires: Use a gauge to check the air
pressure in the trailer tires, including the spare. The
poundage should be the maximum recommend for the tire. This is
usually found on the side of the tire, or on a sticker on the
trailer. Under-inflated tires heat up fast and may blowout.
Bearings: If you have an oil bath
lubrication system, look through the lens at the end of the
hubs to make sure oil is present. If you have a grease-style
Bearing Buddy system, add grease only when you see the blue on
the inside of the Bearing Buddy wall. Adding grease when it
isn’t needed can blow the rear seal.
Inspect the back of the wheels under the trailer to see if oil
or grease has leaked from the bearing seals. Centrifugal force
sprays these lubricants across the wheels and tires. If you
see this, the seal may need replacement.
Winch: The bow-eye connection should
be tight, and the winch in the anti-reverse mode so the boat
can’t slide back.
Safety Bow Connection: An additional
bow safety chain or strap adds insurance and prevents the boat
from shooting forward off the trailer in the event of a
head-on collision. Schwarzel Marine, in Hockingport, Ohio,
uses the BoatBuckle spring-loaded transom hold-down strap for
this purpose.
Transon Hold-Downs: Attach the
transom hold-downs and work the ratchet until they are tight.
If you don’t have these devices, get them. They prevent the
boat from bouncing on the trailer or sliding off should the
bow attachments fail.
Motor Support: Motor supports aren’t
necessary with most late model bass boats that have composite,
non-wood hulls. If you feel you need one, a support that
doesn’t connect to the trailer causes less stress to the motor
and the transom. I like the Outboard Motor Jack, which has two
durable plastic cylinders that slide over the lift pins.
Bunks and Rollers: Check the bunks
and bow stop roller after launching the boat. The wood beneath
the carpeting on the bunks should be solid. Replace bunks that
are rotted to prevent bolts and fasteners from protruding and
damaging the boat’s hull. If the bow roller is worn, replace
it before the metal bow eye supporting it breaks through.
